The Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail

The Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail runs 13km (8mi) between the Humpback Reservoir and the boundary with the Cowichan Valley Regional District near the end of Finlayson View Plc, most of it running in the Sooke Hills Wilderness Park. While unpaved, the path is high quality packed gravel about 3-5m wide (10-16ft), making for smooth biking or hiking. Be warned that there are some steep grades up to 16%, some narrow sections and rocky and gravel surfaces along the route. Horses are not permitted due to its proximity to the Greater Victoria Water Supply Area (watershed). The Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail is also part of both the Trans Canada Trail and the Vancouver Island Spine Trail routes.

Getting Started

The morning began with some cursing as I loaded my very heavy RTG 500 XT Folding Fat Tire E-Bike onto my bike rack for the first time this year. I like the bike for it’s folding capability when we are traveling and by and large it rides well, but it is a heavy brute! However, I guess that is true of most electric bikes. For today’s ride I definitely wanted electric assist as I knew I was in for some steady hill climbing with a fairly heavy load of camera gear on board. Next it was on the road for a 40 minute drive from where I live in Central Saanich out to the trailhead in Goldstream.

The Start at Humpback Reservoir

The Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail begins at the Humpback reservoir in Goldstream within the boundaries of the Sooke Hills Wilderness Park. There are a couple of parking lots with free parking at the reservoir and there is a pit toilet at the parking area right in front of the dam. This is also the start of the trail for hiking Mount Wells (check our post).

Click this link for a park map: Sooke Hills Wilderness Park Map (PDF)

Humpback Reservoir Dam – The main parking area is behind the trees at the top of the photo, the other is behind the trees to the left of the white service vehicles

Once you’re past reservoir the trail climbs up and over a scenic ridge of mature second growth forest. The short ups and downs and winding turns make for some fun riding, but it does have one very steep section. Coming down that steep section, (the trail signs tell you to dismount), brings you to Waugh Creek Falls about 2.5km (1 1/2mi) from the start.

The first section of the trail past the Goldstream Reservoir

Waugh Creek Falls & Goldstream Suspension Bridge

Waugh Creek falls are very pretty, particularly in the late fall, winter and early spring when the water flows are high. There is a wooden viewing platform right off the trail so it is worth taking some time to have a look.

From the falls it is just 1/2km (1/3mi) to a pedestrian suspension bridge spanning the Goldstream River. Once again, it’s worth stopping for some pics, and you have to get off your bike and walk across anyway. Once across the bridge you will wind through a short, forested section of the trail before joining with a wider gravel access road at the lower service gate (used for watershed service vehicles) which now becomes the trail.

Waugh Creek Falls

The Suspension Bridge over the Goldstream River

Aerial view of the Goldstream River Suspension Bridge

Onwards & Upwards to the Watershed’s North Gate

It’s at this point that you will likely have an ‘oh shit’ moment as you look up the hill facing you. The trail climbs very steeply for a some distance before it finally settles down into a continues steady climb towards the upper service gate. Let me tell you, even with the electric assist on my bike I just about aborted the trip as I was working so damn hard to keep that heavy bastard moving. The legs were screaming! Interestingly, I found that upping the power settings on a hill this steep made no difference to the pedaling effort required. So all I could do was keep it in low gear and the lowest power, (setting to save battery), and slugged it out.

Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail

Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail

Fortunately the incline gradually levels out and the riding becomes easier. The trail, after the really steep section anyway, is a very pleasant ride through mature second growth forest with old growth remnants scattered here and there and lots of streams running down the hillsides, at least in the winter. You will come to an outhouse about 6km from the start at the Humpback Reservoir if you need a pit stop get rid of that extra morning coffee.

Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail

A few kilometres further along you will come to the the north gate of the water protection area. There is a kiosk with an information sign and a map of the Sooke Hills Wilderness Regional Park.  It’s a good spot for a break for some water and snacks before carrying on. Overall you gain about 325m (1066ft) in elevation over roughly 6km ( 3.75mi) to this point.

Kiosk at the north gate

The Final Assault to the Cowichan Valley Regional District Border

Once you pass through the north gate you will cross a short section of private land. There is a good place to stop along here with spectacular views all the way to the coast mountains on the mainland. You can see Greater Victoria in the distance and spot the Dominion Astrophysical Observatory and the airport radar on Mt Newton. Equestrians are permitted on this section of the trail.

Mount Newton & the Coast Mountains

View across the Saanich Pennisula & Haro Strait – the Dominion Astrophysical Observatory is visible

This section of the Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail has some more short,  steep sections  before cutting across the western edge of Wrigglesworth Lake Regional Park. It then continues up to the border of the Cowichan Valley Regional District near the end of Finlayson View Plc. From here you turn around or if you’re so inclined, you can keep on riding up past Shawnigan Lake to the historic Kinsol Trestle and beyond into the Cowichan Valley.

Section of the trail passing through Wrigglesworth Regional Park

Back to the Humback Reservoir

Although you will still have to humpback over some short steep sections, most of the trail back is downhill, obviously. All I can say is watch your speed as you can really get moving and you can be screaming around corners on loose gravel at times. I had my brakes literally smoking at times trying to keep my speed in check!

Humpback Reservoir & Dam – Mount Wells in the background

Getting There

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